“Damn, damn, damn”, I said to Sandra and Robert as I came back from the bar. “I knew exactly what I wanted to say. I knew every variation of what he might ask by way of qualifying statements. I felt good about my Swedish. And yet I was served by the English speaking barman”, I told them. Sandra understood my pain.
In an odd bit of synchronicity, she and I sent each other emails at almost exactly the same time suggesting a catch-up. Within fifteen minutes, we were having a drink together at bar near where they live on Södermalm. The Southside is an Irish pub where, it seems, most of the customers are Swedish, and most of the staff are a combination of English-speakers. The musical soundtrack to our beers and wine included a couple of Australian classics, as well as some great sing-a-long numbers. Located in the men’s toilet was a poster for the annual “Anzac Day Race Meeting” held in Stockholm. Yes, it was a pub for expats, I guess.
For a while we were joined at our table by a Swedish bloke who’d had a few drinks. As I was trying to show Sandra and Robert my photographs from Iceland, he was intent on showing me why his Nokia smart phone was better than my Android Nexus 4. We compared apps, we compared cameras. We compared penis.. (No, I’m just being silly, though the conversation did have a certain penis comparison feel about it. Guys, it’s just a mobile phone.)
It was great to see them again, having concluded we hadn’t seen each other since before I went to Iceland. Since then, I’ve been in Turkey. And now I’m back in Stockholm for just ten days before I head back home. Although I’ve toyed with the idea of extending my trip, I’ve concluded a combination of time and money, means I’ll be heading back home as planned.
Although I have secured media accreditation for the Eurovision Song Contest (and would love to go), I’ve decided it’s time to head home for a while to relax and to regroup. The possibility of apartment sitting in Stockholm became an option for a while. On top of that, there’s the possibility (likelihood) of further mid-year overseas travel.
Also, I’m starting to feel a little travel-weary. Although I’ve done some AMAZING things over the last couple of months, the day to day travel, and having to think about where I’m going to stay, what I’m going to do, how I’m going to wash my clothes etc, means I’m looking forward to going home for a little while. I’m not ANXIOUS to go home, but I am looking forward to sleeping in my own bed again.
Over the next ten days I’m looking forward to really enjoying my time in Stockholm. Having
visited the city on a number of occasions, I no longer feel the pressure of being a tourist and having to squeeze lots of things into a small amount of time. Instead, I’m looking forward to just hanging out in a wonderful city.
Even in the last few days that I’ve been away in Turkey, the weather has changed again. All of the snow in the centre of Stockholm has completely gone. As you walk around, you notice the colour of the grass has gone from brown to almost green.
You can also feel the change in the people. The silence of the travel on the subway, the T-bana, has been replaced by chatter and sheer joy. As you walk around, people have their heads help up high, rather than facing down. No longer do they need to watch carefully about where they walk.
The change may also be that it’s “pay week” in Sweden. Swedes are paid on a monthly basis (usually around the third week of the month). When they get paid, I’ve been told, they tend to go out, have a few drinks, and enjoy life to the full. Ain’t that the truth.
We’re in the midst of Chinese New Year in Sydney. Last night, Damo and I went for a walk through the Dickson Street Markets, which are always fun. I have to say, though, there’s some real crap on offer, and I still don’t understand why “Spam” – the processed canned meat – has a stall of its own. On the positive, however, the markets are great fun, especially in the daytime with lion dancing and fire-crackers going off all around.
Damo and I also enjoyed a really wonderful meal at the House of Guangzhou. Accompanied by a bottle of Shaw & Smith Sauvignon Blanc, we enjoyed a tasty well-presented meal of a number of favourites, including BBQ Pork, Chicken, and San Choy Bow. Of particular note were the vegetarian spring rolls which were moist and tasty, in stark contrast to those which you often find in Chinatown which are tasteless and deep-fried beyond recognition.
While visiting Tibet, Kate bought this lovely little keep-sake for me. Apparently it contains lots of lovely written things by the Dalai Lama’s monks. But since it’s so beautifully wrapped, I haven’t unwrapped it, and I’ve been keeping it in my wallet over the last few months.
With fine weather forecast, I’ll also probably pop down to the markets tomorrow ahead of Mardi Gras Fair Day.
I spent most of the afternoon on a walking tour called, “Slurry Hills and Razorhurst”, presented by Mark Dunn President of the History Council and organised by 702 ABC Sydney. Although I’ve been on a number of local history walks before, this was probably the most interesting and illuminating one I’ve ever been on.
The tour started on the steps of St Peter’s Church, Devonshire Street, where we were shown photographs of Kate Leigh’s funeral which was attended by many people including Tilley Devine. According to the accompanying blurb, “From the 1920s until the 1940s two women ran the Sydney underworld: Tilly Devine and Kate Leigh. This walk starts at the front door of Kate’s house and ends at the front door of Tilly’s, taking in the haunts, hollows and hovels of Surry Hills and Darlinghurst along the way”.
What was supposed to be about 2 hours in duration ended up closer to 3, not that anyone minded since there was so much to learn along the way. Although the common thread was Kate and Tilley and their trade in sly-grog, prostitution, and shoplifting, we also stopped by historic buildings including the Baptist Temple where Arthur Stacey (the man who wrote Eternity on Sydney footpaths) attended, and the Reader’s Digest Building (formerly the stables for a brewery).
The house in which Kate Leigh was living when she died, located on Devonshire Street, Surry Hills near The Shakespeare and Mohr FishArguably, the most famous brothel in Sydney – A Touch Of Class.The house where Tilley did most of her work up until her retirement.
Come to the end of the walk I grabbed a quick bite to eat and met Andrew for a brief drink.
Now two hours later I’ve got the washing machine pumping away, the television is playing quietly in the background, and I’m enjoying putting my feet up.
Thirty-ish years ago, I was a young ABC Radio presenter, fresh from my move to Wagga Wagga. My first big national story revolved around the Sydney Gay and Lesbian Choir being asked to change its name to compete in the national choral championships, held in Wagga Wagga. It was a significant story at the time. Recently, I’ve updated the piece I recorded back then, incorporating new material, and after securing the rights to use some additional material. With Mardi Gras approaching, I wanted to share this radio package, reflecting on the events of the time and how much has changed since.
TRANSCRIPT
ABC Radio Archives: From Westside Story, somewhere by the Sydney Gay and Lesbian Choir. The issue was whether Wagga might be that place because earlier this year, the championships’ organizers asked the choir to consider changing its name to the Eastern Suburbs G&L Choir.
James O’Brien: It was 30 years ago on The World Today on ABC Radio. I remember I had just arrived in Wagga a few months earlier, presenting the morning show, and it was my first big national story.
Stephen Schaeffer (from the documentary “Something To Sing About”): It’s obviously an important one. It’s the one just before we hit Wagga, okay? I understand there’s been some flurry of excitement in the press about our imminent arrival in Wagga. ABC Radio Riverina rang me at nine o’clock in the morning on Monday in my office, and before I’d even had my cup of coffee, I was talking live on ABC Radio. Is the choir’s participation political?
With permission, taken from the documentary, “Something To Sing About”
James O’Brien: That’s Stephen Schaefer, musical director of the Sydney Gay and Lesbian Choir at the time, and he was talking about being on the radio show with me.
Meredith Knight: And then the job of actually applying to go to Wagga was my responsibility to put in the application form.
James O’Brien: This is Meredith Knight. She was secretary of the Sydney Gay and Lesbian Choir at the time.
Meredith Knight (Choir Secretary): And I remember clearly to the day that I was at work as a property manager in my own office, when the phone call came through from the secretary of the organizing committee to say that they had received our application, but I can’t remember exactly how she said it, but I think she said, “Look, there’s just one problem.”
And I said, “Yeah, okay, well, what’s that?” And she said, “Well, we’ve discussed it with the committee, and we’d like you to change your name to the G&L Choir.” I mean, she said to me on the phone, because I said, “Well, why do you want us to change our name?” And she said, “Because we kind of think there’s going to be children’s choirs involved, and that might discourage them from participating. And also, we have a lot of sponsors to sponsor this event, and we don’t want the publicity of there being a gay and lesbian choir that might chase away sponsors.”
Of course, it didn’t, as far as I’m aware. But I remember when we got into the final, that there were two, I think, school groups that stayed behind to cheer us on. They were actually supposed to be going back home, wherever they were from, I don’t know, but they were supposed to be going back home.
But they asked their supervisors and their teachers if they could stay because they wanted to cheer on the Sydney Gay and Lesbian Choir in the final.
James O’Brien: I caught up with some of the choir a couple of years ago. In particular, I remember one woman who talked about her apprehension at returning to Wagga as she’d previously lived there.
Choir Member: I won’t go into my whole life story, but in 1979, I was in a relationship with a woman that came from Wagga. In 1978, we were sacked from the Mater Hospital for being gay. Yeah, and so she was dragged back to Wagga by her family.
Six months later, I went to Wagga to live with her. It was probably the worst time of my life because it was the most homophobic town. Of course, her parents, I won’t say their name, were quite well-known in Wagga at the time, apparently.
They did everything they could, so I couldn’t get work, I couldn’t do this, I couldn’t do anything. It was just a nightmare. Eventually, I left, and many years later, some years later, fell in love with Tamina and never looked back until Stephen announced that I was going to Wagga.
James O’Brien: So was this a bit triggering for you?
Choir Member: It was, absolutely. I was petrified going back to Wagga. Yeah, yeah, petrified, because I was worried.
I mean, in hindsight, it probably never would have happened, but I was worried I’d run into the girl, I’d run into her family, because people were really horrible to me in the town when I was there, so I was petrified. But none of those things happened, and it was actually a lovely experience. And once I was there with the choir, a lot of those panicked feelings I had sort of settled.
Stephen Schaefer: Hi, I’m Stephen Schaefer. I was the founding music director of the Sydney Gay and Lesbian Choir. I always went there with a great sense of confidence.
I mean, I think I raised the idea with the choir to general incredulity, if I remember. We’d only been going for a little over a year, maybe 18 months, something like that. And for some crazy reason, I thought we should go and do it, even if we didn’t win, which wasn’t exactly on the agenda at the time.
It would be a great experience. It’d be a weekend away, never to be forgotten, as indeed it was. It was sort of like several weekends away, never to be forgotten.
But it was such a wonderful experience. It really put the choir on the map, certainly when we won. But I think it did a great deal for us, each of us, just starting on what has become a 30-year journey.
James O’Brien: One of the interesting things for me, as well as reporting on the story, is that I was also a member of the local gay and lesbian community. So I was given a bit of access behind the scenes to the story as it unfolded.
ABC Radio Archives: Because every time someone stands up and says, “I’m gay and lesbian,” it’s a brave act.
And when 70 people get up and say it and sing it, and they win a competition, it’s really wonderful. Given that early adverse publicity about the choir coming to Wagga, was there any trepidation about coming to Wagga? Well, we didn’t quite know what to expect when we got here. In fact, you know, we got off the train and got onto the bus, and that was that.
But yeah, we had little second thoughts and stuff, of course. And so winning in the face of that is, you know, even sweeter. The gay and lesbian choir took first place in the community choir section, fighting off six others.
With it, political and artistic kudos. We were competing tonight in the mainstream, nationally, with other mainstream choirs. And as a gay and lesbian choir, we won.
I think that’s really important for the community. Stephen, artistically, what is the significance of this? Musically, it means that the Sydney Gay and Lesbian Choir, which is a group of totally untrained and unauditioned singers, most of whom just can’t read music at all, can meet the challenge, can discover something that they love sharing and communicating with their friends and the wider community, and perform to an Australian class standard. After Wagga, what next? We’ve been invited to sing at the Fifth National AIDS Conference closing dinner, which is a very exciting and prestigious event.
We’re very proud to be part of that. We’ll probably mount another concert early next year as part of the Mardi Gras, and we’re planning to release a CD. International touring has not yet crossed off the agenda.
Getting the choir to Wagga was a major undertaking. So New York or London is a little further off, I think. And I think we’ll actually try and aim to go to the Gay Games in New York in two years’ time.
And I would also like to see the choir go to the Australian Gay Games, the China Standards in Melbourne, in January, long weekend next year, I think we’ll be there. Well, that’s a good thing because we’re part of an ever-widening and very active community in all areas. It’s just fantastic that gay and lesbian people are everywhere and are living and functioning, funnily enough, and enjoying it and starting to say, “Hey, we’re here.”
And celebrating as we can hear. Absolutely.
POSTSCRIPT : I attempted to locate some local members of the organising committee, but unfortunately it was such a long time ago that most have died.
But this is something I recorded at the time. This was the item which played locally on ABC Radio in Wagga, which was very much about the success and challenges for the community itself, as the competition gained further national exposure.
JO: Both artistically, and in terms of popularity, the National Choral Championships are undergoing rapid growth and rapid change, and will expand in coming years, according to one of the judges, Adrian Wintle.
Adrian Wintle (AW): We started very modestly, as you’re aware in 1990 with seven choirs actually entering, and it’s been pretty much a slow moving thing, but it’s starting to spread around, the word of these championships, and as people get to hear about it, and realise it is the richest choral event in Australia, we expect to see even more entries next year.
JO: In terms of quality of performance, where to from where, do you expect to attract better choirs from Australia?
AW: We’re all acutely aware, the judicators, that there are squillions of choirs out there in the wilderness, and we would hope that some of the cathedral choirs, for instance, the collegiate choirs, the university choirs, might see fit to come to Wagga. We also held a think-tank session on the Sunday morning after the event, and we as a committee, gleaned from that various things that will help run the championships in the future including, possibly, the subsidisation of choirs coming in, if we’re to gain sufficient sponsorship to cover the basic travel costs, because we are conscious that Wagga being situtated as it is, represents expenditure of a high order for groups coming in from abroad.
JO: But there was also high praise for the choirs which won from the audience…
Voice Over: The first prize for the male and female choir goes to the Melbourne Chorus of Sweet Adelines.
JO: But Adrian Wintle is fast to point out that it’s artistic merit not just popularity that assures a choir of a win.
AW: There’s a yardstick you apply according to the capabilities, the inherent capabilities of a choir. If you’re judging in a community choir section you can’t expect the attainment of that community choir to rival that of a professional or a sub-professional, advanced chamber choir. And the set works reflect that sort of division, if you like. But within the perceived limits of a particular section you look for excellence.
JO: One of the big surprises was the win by the Sydney Gay & Lesbian Choir. Crowded earlier this year in a controversy – they were asked to change their name to the “Eastern Suburbs G&L Choir” – the secretary of the choir feels proud of their achievement, to have won first place in the Community Choir section.
Stephen Schafer, Choir Musical Director (SS): Musically, it means the Sydney Gay &and Lesbian Choir, which is a group of totally untrained and unauditioned singers, most of whom just can’t read music at all can meet the challenge, can discover something they love sharing and communicating with their friends and the wider community, and perform to an Australian class standard.: We also got the positive reception from the Wagga people, who were the organisers of the Choral Championships. They were very pleased that we were here; they were very pleased that we won. And that was from the Wagga people, who organised the championships. And that was just terrific to just be accepted for who we are by the people. The other choirs thought we were terrific. In fact we’ve got some here tonight celebrating with us, and we’ve just got a tremendous response from people, in fact better than we expected.
JO: So where to from now? Adrian Wintle believes the championships will grow, attracting bigger and better choirs…
AW: Overall, I think it speaks of an expansion. We as a committee have to be ready to cope with that. We have to be sensitive to the requirement of these choirs coming in, to offer them the prospect of reasonable accommodation, and for that, we need the assistance of the Motelier’s Association, which support us already. We have to ensure they have adequate rehearsal space when they get here. There was a thing that was floated at the “think-tank” session concerning the use of churches which led to a suggestion, perhaps, we should have a category for church choirs. And all this sort of material from around and aired suggests that we’re on the bring of a choral music explosion.
It’s lunchtime Sunday and I’m feeling a bit hungry. Yes I know I should eat, but I have lots to say about what was a reasonably interesting and busy week in my life.
I spent the week travelling to Adelaide and Perth for work reasons, although of course there was a persona element to the Perth trip as well.
There’s not a lot to report about the trip to Adelaide, aside from the fact that I nearly froze to death and briefly watched the bingo competition at one of the local pubs, the Edinburgh Castle.
In fact, I’d say the most interesting thing, other than work, about the trip was the flight between there and Perth when I read a book by John Shelby Spong called Sins Of Scripture. The essential argument of the book is that throughout history various bible texts have been used selectively to condemn homosexuality, keep women “in their place”, deliver war and encourage environmental unsustainability, amongst many other things. Yes, while the rest of the plane was reading the Da Vinci Code, I was reading another book which seeks to provide an alternative reading of the Christian story… although, of course, a lot of Christians would argue both are works of fiction.
Going back to Perth after such a long break was really terrific. It was great to catch up with all of the people I’ve worked with and in some ways to achieve some “closure” about my time there. In the back of my mind over the last few months there has been a slight doubt that maybe I should have gone for the job there on a permanent basis. But going there has clarified in my mind that Sydney is the place for me, both personally and professionally.
My only regret, two days later, is that I met a really nice bloke there on Friday night who I wish I’d met twelve months earlier. An ABBA fan, of course, a similar age, and with other common interests, we got on like a house on fire. One of life’s many ironies.
On the trip back I read Graeme Blundell’s biography of Graham Kennedy for a long time. Although there are some personal reminiscences from the likes of Noelene Brown this is very much a “public account” of Graham Kennedy’s life. And for that reason I found it a little disappointing. I wasn’t looking for a “Kitty Kelley” tell all book about his personal relationships, but I guess I was looking for a more explicit book about Graham Kennedy the person.
And then last night, Damien and I went to the closing night film of the Sydney Film Festival, called Howl’s Castle, a Japanese animation film which I enjoyed immensely. Although the film has been released in America with voices dubbed by the likes of Christian Bale and Lauren Bacall, we watched the original Japanese dialogue with English subtitles. Odd, eh?
I have had a day pretending to be Swedish. I mean, I don’t look Swedish, and I don’t sound Swedish, and for the most part, I was probably a complete failure. But I had to pretend to be Swedish, just in case anyone thought I was American, Italian or German.
It all started at lunchtime with the most “touristy” thing I’ve done this trip: watch the changing of the guards at the Royal Palace. It’s all a bit of a cliché designed for the tourists, and of course, the current Swedish royal family is French anyway, but failing to do it would be like going to London and not seeing Buckingham Palace.
Frankly, the ceremony goes on far too long and not enough happens to justify the time involved. I got a bit bored, to be honest. But to my left, there was an American woman who clearly thought it was very very important to see. “Get out of my way”, she said, to the johnny-come-lately’s who stood in front of her just as all the action began. “I’ve been waiting forty-five minutes”, she told them.
I was fairly sympathetic towards her, actually. Imagine if you would a situation where the guards are trying to make it safe for the public while about thirty horses come through, and you have stupid tourists who don’t pay any attention to them. And who then stand in front of people who have been waiting for ages and doing the right thing.
I also felt sorry for the guards (a bunch of kids on military service) who must have felt like they were herding cats. I lost track of the number of times they told people to stay behind the lines for their personal safety.
Changing of the guard, Royal Palace in Stockholm
And then there was the stupid German man who kept whistling to attract the attention of his wife on the other side of the square, right next to the horses which were already fairly agitated.
In the midst of this group of Americans, Italians and Germans who thought their photographs or making contact with their family or friends were more important than public safety, I just kept quiet, smiled at the guards, and did my best to pretend to be Swedish. Or at least, anything except an American, an Italian or a German.
After that I headed into deep suburbia, Solna Central, to buy a t-shirt and some socks. I’ve already thrown out some things, including a shirt I never liked and a book about last year’s federal election which seemed like a good idea at the time, but I was in fairly desperate need of both a new t-shirt and some socks. So I decided to hit the train line and look for a suburban centre. As it turned out H and M at Solna was excellent value. I felt Swedish and suburban.
Coming back, I went along to Parkteatern on Djurgarden where the band, “A Beautiful Friend” were due to play at 6.30 pm. Even by the time I’d arrived at about 5.45, many people had already staked a claim on the grass, such is the way of Swedes with their summer concerts. Unlike Australians, though, who would happily sit on the grass, most of the Swedes I noticed had blankets or even pamphlets to sit on.
Musicians play in the park in Stockholm
I understood most of the patter in between songs. Mostly it was nothing more than “this is a song about a lost love from my album”. There was an occasion, however, when the singer told an anecdote about being mistaken for someone else by a drunk in a bar in Jonkopping. I understood all of the story, except for the punchline which got a huge laugh, but which was obviously a very definite Swedish reference.
The concert was okay enough, though to be honest, I got a little bored. There were lots of very earnest singer-songwriter songs if you know what I mean. None of the lyrics (all in English) was particularly profound, nor was the music especially memorable, in my opinion. Still, the crowd seemed to enjoy the show.
Patricia Nightclub in Stockholm
On the way home I popped into a legendary bar, Patricia, located on a boat in the city. Unfortunately, almost everyone on the boat was an American aged about fifty and gay. Like “really gay”, like “professional gay”, if you get my meaning. They’d been on a “gay cruise”. Can you imagine anything worse? As I listened in to a few of the conversations, they mostly revolved around where people came from (in America) and what they did, and “being gay”.
Magnus Carlsson playing at Patricia, Stockholm during Europride 2008.
I found a quiet spot, had a few drinks, and smiled and chatted with a couple of Swedes.
Best of all, though, I picked up a flyer which shows another of my favourite Swedish performers, Magnus Carlsson is performing there next week. The big music week just got bigger. So it’s now…
July 27 – Peter Joback and Eva Dahlgren at Skansen
July 28 – Magnus Carlsson at Patricia
July 29 – BWO at Allsang pa Skasen
July 30 – Arrival at Pride
July 31 – Schlager night at Pride
August 2 – Misc, including Alcazar at Pride
August 3 – Svenne & Lotta at Pride
August 5 – BAO at Allsang pa Skasen
Does life get any better?
In other news, I’ve cancelled this week’s accommodation in Uppsala, because I’m enjoying Stockholm so much.
Catching the bus this morning, I noticed the young Asian woman reading a copy of The Bible, while the middle-aged Caucasian man in front of her was reading The Da Vinci Code.
When I went to get my shoes repaired, I noticed the look on the bloke’s face that said he didn’t want to repair my shoes even before I brought them out of the bag. You could just tell repairing shoes was something he hated doing, a sideline in his business. And I just knew he was going to say they were going to be unrepairable – even though I thought they were – even before I showed them to him. I’m looking for a better shoes repair man, by the way.
I noticed the blank looks on the faces of the people in the various shops I went to, looking for a mini coaxial cable connector, to lengthen the lead for my Foxtel connection. “You want USB?, they all said blankly.
I noticed the look of satisfaction on the face of the assistant who made my a “Hotdog with the works” at Harry’s Cafe de Wheels. You could just see how proud she was to have put so much food on such a small bun.
I noticed the look of frustration on the face of the bloke in Bing Lee who gave me a discount on my mini coaxial cable connector, but then who couldn’t get me through the cashier, because the woman in front of me was paying off a plasma (or something) with a fist-full of ten dollar notes which needed recounting.
I also noticed the dismissive look on the face of the woman I bought shoes from, when I told her the pair she had selected for me were not large enough. “Can you try again to fit them?”, he she said to me, to which I replied, “No they don’t fit”. The look on her face was quite dismissive, as if I hadn’t tried hard enough to make them fit.
And I noticed the look of fear on the faces of other commuters on the bus today when a rather smelly looking shady character got on the bus looking for a seat on the way home. “Don’t sit next to me”, I could hear them saying to themselves in a Homer-like inner voice. Of course, he sat next to me.
All in all, I “noticed” a lot of things today. Possibly too much? Maybe it’s my new glasses?
Like this:
LikeLoading…
Related
One Comment
I love it that you were so spontaneous James! It was great to meet up. Again.
I love it that you were so spontaneous James! It was great to meet up. Again.