Lewisham Lasagne

For the past few days I’ve been playing a dual role: part tour guide, part host, with a family member visiting Darwin for the first time. Of course, I’m something of a tourist myself. I’m working here, I’ve been here a number of times before, but seeing the place through the eyes of someone who’s never visited changes things. I found myself sitting down ahead of her arrival, thinking carefully about what she might enjoy, what was realistic, and how best to pace it all over a few short days.

Her flight arrived at what can only be described as stupid o’clock in the morning, so I opted for an easy first day. Nothing too ambitious. I booked her onto one of those hop-on, hop-off buses, a gentle way to see a range of Darwin sights without committing too much energy straight away.

As it turned out, the weather hit her harder than expected. The heat, combined with the humidity, proved quite fatiguing. She decided to take things much more slowly than either of us had anticipated. I ran into her later that day while heading back from grabbing lunch on my way to work. She was sitting down, looking thoroughly exhausted and very red in the face. I commented on it — gently — and she admitted she was heading back to the hotel for a lie down. Sensible. That first Darwin lesson arrived swiftly.

For the following day, I’d organised a full-day tour to Litchfield National Park. I’ve been there a few times now, and it really is ideal for a one-day outing. It’s only a couple of hours from Darwin, unlike Kakadu, which many visitors feel compelled to see without realising just how far away it is. A single day in Kakadu usually means hours on a bus and very little time actually there. Litchfield, by contrast, is far more doable and rewarding in one hit.

The tour ran for about ten or eleven hours and included visits to several waterfalls and swimming holes. One of the falls was closed due to recent flooding and the presence of crocodiles — a reminder that nature very much sets the rules here — but there was still plenty to see. The termite mounds were, as always, impressive, and there was a welcome stop at a pub on the way back, which felt like a fitting end to a long Top End day.

On Saturday, my friend Cathy — born and raised in Darwin, though she lived away for many years — offered to take us on a bit of a local’s tour. Interestingly, the destination was somewhere she herself hadn’t visited in about 15 years, since taking her daughter there. We headed to Crocodyllus, just on the outskirts of the city. It turned out to be a thoroughly enjoyable experience. Crocodiles, of course, are the main attraction, but there are also a range of other animals, including pythons and various tropical species that feel entirely in keeping with the place.

The visit included a boat tour on the lake, which was thrown in and unexpectedly delightful. After that, we spent some time driving around the part of Darwin where Cathy grew up, eventually settling into a pub for the afternoon — always a good move. I think Cathy enjoyed the day as much as we did, seeing familiar places with fresh eyes.

Beyond the big outings, we fitted in plenty of smaller experiences: a visit to the Rapid Creek and Parap markets, meals in different spots around town, and several sunsets — including at Stokes Hill Wharf and the Ski Club. We took in the Museum and Art Gallery of the Northern Territory, and, somewhat unexpectedly, ended up at drag queen bingo one night.

I also made sure she saw a few of my favourite bars around Darwin — Charlie’s, Gin Bar, and the bars in the old cinema complex just around the corner from where we’re staying. They’re lovely places, made even better by the excellent pizzas.

Now it’s the final night. She’s catching the midnight flight back to New South Wales. Having her here for the past few days has been wonderful, and I think she’s enjoyed the experience immensely. By the end, she’d even started to come to terms with the weather — perhaps the biggest achievement of all.