I wandered over to Victoria Street this morning for a coffee at the lovely little French patisserie there. On the way back I came across a street I’ve never been in before, Little Oxford Street. Well, not knowingly anyway, as it’s the kind of street you might pop into late at night for a quick pee with little care for the neighbours.
You know what I mean: it’s too far from home, you can’t be bothered going into a pub, no one’s looking, so you pop down a little side street and relieve yourself. Not that I would do such a thing myself, nor would I endorse such behaviour of course. Especially since there’s a little laneway near where I live which most days has a unique aroma to it that tells you most men see the world as their own personal urinal.
That said, it must be a real problem being so close to Oxford Street, not only for blokes relieving themselves, but for all manner of other unsavoury behaviour. Anyway, in the daytime it seems like a nice little street.
It’s late Monday night, my final night in Sweden (sadly), and I’ve just arrived home from the music, fireworks and celebrity-spotting of the official opening of the long-awaited ABBA Museum.
The idea for a permanent ABBA Museum in Stockholm has been around since the end of 2006. The original idea was for the museum to inhabit the space now occupied by the city’s Fotografiska Museet. When that didn’t prove to be economically viable, the organisers launched a number of short-term exhibition spaces in a number of countries including two quite different exhibitions in both Melbourne and Sydney.
ABBAWORLD Melbourne Waterloo Costumes
In Melbourne the exhibition was very much about the global story of ABBA (with a lot of Swedish language material); while in Sydney it was very much about the story of ABBA in Australia. Here in Stockholm, it’s very much the global story once again, though probably not as comprehensive as it was in Melbourne. In Melbourne, for example, there was a fair bit of material covering their individual careers after ABBA.
Owe Sandström, costume designer, chatted with fans about his work with ABBA.
Naturally, there’s a fair bit of Australia in the exhibition here, due to the amazing success ABBA enjoyed, and because “ABBA – The Movie” was filmed mostly in Australia. There’s quite a good quote attributed to Bjorn in the exhibition. Reflecting on the record-breaking 14-weeks “Fernando” spent at number one on the Australia charts, Bjorn is quoted as saying something along the lines of how they have been forever grateful for the Australian “kick-start” to their career at a time when there wasn’t much interest in the group outside Sweden.
Of course, you see the costumes, the gold records, the photographs and so on. You also get to see some of the recreated spaces from the story of ABBA, including the offices of Polar Music and the famous island shack in the Stockholm Archipelago where Bjorn and Benny composed many of their songs. These are lovely spaces, indeed.
There are also some lovely intimate touches in the new museum. A few weeks ago, speaking at the International ABBA Day, curator Ingmarie Halling mentioned two of them. “If you’re in the ABBA Museum and you’re standing near the Ring Ring exhibit, you should answer the phone, as it’s probably going to be Frida. And if you see the piano suddenly playing, it’s gonna be Benny doing it remotely”, she told us.
You can sing-a-long with ABBA holograms.
The telephone call from Frida (or indeed any member of ABBA, as “they all have the number”, we were told) was inspired by a John Lennon exhibition in New York. When Frida heard that Yoko Ono would sometimes call the telephone there and speak randomly to people visiting the exhibition, she replied instantly that she would love to do that also.
ABBA Soap
“You want to start a riot?”, I said to a friend, as we stood near the telephone during the fan club preview on Friday. “I have an old fashioned ring tone on my phone. You go over there, stand next to the phone, and when I play the ring tone you answer it”, I joked with him. Of course, we didn’t do that, as that would be cruel, but it gave us quite a laugh.
The Arrival Helicopter
Ingmarie mentioned how all four members of ABBA had been interviewed for the exhibition, and how she was constantly checking facts to make sure everything was just right. She told us, for example, the lengths she went to trying to find out the real story about the transformation of the famous white piano from its previous brown colouring which has featured in the “archipelago room” of “ABBA World”. “Oh I can’t remember. There were so many pianos”, Frida reportedly told her with a laugh. All four members of ABBA have recorded parts of the audio commentary to accompany the tour.
Live on ABC Radio in Australia from the ABBA Museum Opening
Much of the interactivity from the previous ABBAWorld incarnations is there also, including a sixty-second electronic ABBA Quiz (I got 12 out of 12 correct), and the ability to sing along with holographic images of ABBA, and later download a video of your performance.
Talking about the ABBA Museum opening on ABC Radio NSW
When she spoke about it a few weeks ago, I wondered how Ingmarie had maintained her enthusiasm for the project. You could imagine having spent several years of your life working on this project (and before that many years working with ABBA when they were an active group), Ingmarie would be a little bored with the project. However, she spoke with such passion that it was fairly evident that wasn’t the case. She spoke, for example, about exercising her own personal creativity in the design of some couches which will feature in the exhibition, and how she approached some young designers in Sweden to further develop that idea. “When you visit the exhibition you’ll be able to sit and listen to ABBA on couches which look like a stack of vinyl”, she told us. Along the way, Ingmarie also mentioned she has been writing a book that will go with the museum. “It’s the one book about ABBA I might be willing to read”, Benny reportedly said to her.
When you know so much about something before actually experiencing it, there’s always the risk you will be disappointed. I wasn’t. The museum has been clearly put together with care and an eye for detail. I liked it very much and would recommend it to anyone visiting Stockholm.
And then of course tonight, we had the big opening event. As has become the “norm” for these big ABBA events, only three out of four ABBA members attended. Agnetha was a no-show. The only time all four have been seen together in decades was for the Swedish premiere of the “Mamma Mia” movie in 2008. I actually arrived in Stockholm the day after that appearance. I was determined not to miss this one, so I booked my flights only after the date for the gala opening was confirmed.
Talking about the ABBA Museum opening on ABC Radio Brisbane.
Rather than concentrate solely on ABBA, the museum will have a longer-term focus on the success of Swedish music more generally. Apparently, that’s something all members of the band were keen to see when agreeing to support (and invest money) in the initiative. As such, the musical opening tonight featured a range of musicians performing a collection of ABBA songs, but also classics from Monica Zetterlund to Swedish House Mafia. As the museum also houses a hotel, our “stage” for the night was actually the hotel room. Windows and curtains opened and closed, and coloured lights focussed our eyes on the performers. It was spectacular, and of course, ended with fireworks and a performance of “Thank You For The Music”
Fireworks for the ABBA Museum OpeningTalking about the ABBA Museum opening with Rod Quinn on ABC Radio.
It’s Saturday night and I’m searching through the many channels that Foxtel provides. Survivor Guatemala, Jag, Midsomer Murders, Casualty, As It Happened. Yeh they’re all reasonable programs I guess, but not suited to my current mood I guess which I’m not sure how I’d best describe. It’s a warm night in Sydney, although not unbearably so and I’ve just woken up from a lengthy nap.
I had an afternoon nap in an effort to catch up from last night’s Andrew Olle Media Lecture which was enormously good fun and which you can download an mp3. It was the largest turnout we’d ever had and it was great to see a number of people I haven’t seen for quite some time and to chat. As usual, Damo and I wandered around looking for a drink while observing the politics and networking while at the same time catching up. Both the lecture and the conversations before and after were absolutely fascinating for many reasons.
Speaking of which… Wednesday was a dramatic day at work.
So afterwards a few of us went out for a couple of beers to ponder life, the universe and everything. After the beers, I met Colin. We’d arranged to see a new musical about Dracula at the Theatre Royal. A community production written by two blokes from Wollongong, the musical promised so much but delivered so little. It doesn’t matter that this wasn’t a professional production, the problem was that it was amateurish. It appeared as if no one with even a slightly critical eye had glanced over the production to make suggestions for improvement. We were part of the large group who left at intermission. 90 minutes of my life wasted. Still, it gave me something to write about it and will probably provide hours of endless dinner party conversation.
Also this week, we had another Bloggers Meeting at which everyone turned up remarkably early. We’ve all agreed to promote the meetup for next month on our websites and have decided to try the trivia night down the road, figuring that we’re all such nerds with specialist knowledge that we might actually do quite well. Mind you, it could be the information we have – cars, philosophy, country music, ABBA – may in fact be too specialised!
Other than those rather dramatic events not much to report. The next week sounds interesting, though. I’m going to yum cha tomorrow and then on Monday night, I’m going to a special screening of ABBA-The Movie, co-inciding with the launch of the CD.
It’s Saturday night and I’ve just finished watching the ABC’s coverage of the Federal Election. I voted earlier today as an absentee voter for the Federal Seat of Sydney which Tania Plibersek holds with a margin of about 15%. I see Tania is back in and that the Greens have also done very well.
There’s not a lot to report on the social scene. Sue was in town this week and spent most of her time at the Anglican National Synod. She’s staying in Fremantle and we caught up for a while last weekend, chatting about this and that. A friend of hers from Melbourne also came along for my “Visitors Guide To Fremantle Tour”. We also caught up for a few hours earlier today, ahead of her trip to South Africa. There is a lot of people from South Africa living in Perth and, catching the train to Fremantle today, Sue observed, “There’s that accent again.” Sue is coming back for a “proper visit” in a few weeks time.
But the most important and saddest news of the week was the death of Liz Croll. It has overwhelmed just about everything else in my life over the last few days, starting with the first phone call from Kate at 6.30 on Wednesday morning telling me what had happened to chatting with Yvette yesterday after the funeral. I’m teary again now.
Her death notice appeared in the Sydney Morning Herald.
CROLL, Elisabeth Ruth (Liz).
Born in 1960, died October 4, 2004 (in Judbury, Tasmania).
Her beautiful mind in peace at last.
Tim’s Darling Lizzy and best big sister to Gala. Dearly loved daughter of (Frank) and Joan, wonderful sister and much loved aunt to Catherine and Tom, Philippa, Gerard, Lachlan, Oliver and Hamish. Annabel, Max and Phoebe. A tragedy for all our families and Liz’s many friends.Lizzy, we know you loved and cared for us all.
Please, no flowers but, you may like to help someone like Liz by donating to Beyond Blue, Post Office Box 6100, Hawthorn, Victoria, 3122.
I had dinner tonight with a good friend at a new Scandinavian-inspired restaurant in Sydney called “Norsk Dor”. With my interests in all things Scandinavian, but especially Swedish, she thought it wold be a good place for us to catch up.
“It’s only been open three weeks”, our waiter told us, so aside from a few reviews here and there, I’m guessing it’s getting to be known about, largely, through word of mouth.
Entering Norsk Dor
“Did you hear the wolves on the way in?”, he also asked us, referring to sound effects you hear as you walk the long corridor you need to follow from the entrance on Pitt Street before you actually get to the restaurant. And then you need to press a buzzer before you get in.
“It’s like the gay bar I visited in Latvia on a Tuesday night”, I told my friend. I then went on to tell her about having to press buttons, secret handshakes and all kinds of weird and wonderful things I encountered during a trip to Riga in 2008. But I digress..
The service, food and wine were excellent.
Norsk DorNorsk Dor
I wouldn’t call it the most “authentic” Scandinavian experience (more Danish if anything, and the waiters were English and German), I’ve ever had, so don’t go there expecting NOMA-like cuisine, or even anything you might find in the middle of Stockholm. But very, very good.
“It was like Stockholm in the middle of summer”, I told my friend, “full of Germans”.
I’m not used to Sydney gay bars having so many people attending them. In the midst of “Sydney WorldPride”, in some ways, I’m kinda longing for the “good old days” when it was just people sitting by themselves looking down at their mobile phones. Of course, I’m joking.
As I walked along Oxford Street last night, there was a moment when I looked around and thought it kinda felt like Oxford Street in the 90s all over again. The crowd was overwhelmingly “gay”. That felt good.
Entering a few bars, however, I felt a little overwhelmed by the crowds.
“This is the only place I could find that wasn’t too crowded”, I told a friend as we met up for a late afternoon drink at “Universal Bar”, formerly known as “The Midnight Shift”.
Looking around the new bar, I reminisced about the “good old days” when the place had pool tables and a giant fish tank. I explained to my friend that the tank was there because goldfish have a memory span of only five minutes. It was a nostalgic moment as I remembered the lively bar scene on Oxford Street.
Queers of Java, onstage at Crown Street, as part of Sydney WorldPride
My friend confided in me that she was experiencing some Sydney WorldPride “fatigue” after attending numerous events. Although she had tickets to several more, she intended to give them away to friends. “I just need a break after a couple of weeks,” she explained.
I could relate to her sentiment. After enduring three years of COVID and a few years prior to that witnessing the decline of gay bars, it’s almost overwhelming to witness such a surge of LGBTQIA+ activity in Sydney. Seeing so many people on the scene is both exciting and unfamiliar.
Pride Anthems, as part of the Sydney WorldPride showcase on Crown Street.
This week, I’ve been thoroughly enjoying attending the 5 pm showcase hosted by my friend. The showcase has featured some amazing performers from the festival program.
Looking ahead, I’m eagerly anticipating the walk on Sunday across the Sydney Harbour Bridge, where an estimated 50,000 people will proudly wear their rainbow colours. It’s going to be a fantastic celebration of LGBTQIA+ pride!
After that, like Christmas decorations, I assume the rainbow flags will come down, and we’ll go back to lots of solitary people sitting in bars looking down at their mobile phones. I hope not.
For the last couple of days I’ve been wondering if I should share with you one of the downsides of being in Stockholm at the moment. Even though, as I’ve said, it’s lovely and sunny in the daytime, it can still get quite cold. Unfortunately that’s caused my body some slight grief, and after much hesitation, today I’m revealing my legs, and the slight case of cold weather hives I’ve developed.
Cold urticaria is the proper name for the red welts which have emerged on my legs in the last few days. Even though I’ve kept myself reasonably warm and protected, it’s still been cold enough to have developed a fairly minor outbreak of the condition. According to everything I’ve read, it’s reasonably common, and even though it can sometimes cause death, it’s fairly easily treated with some extra moisturiser. So there you go. The bad as well as the good.
Cold Weather Hives – Cold Urticaria
I was up reasonably early this morning checking out the online news. OMG, there was talk on Twitter, briefly, of another leadership challenge back home. Following on from successful leadership challenges in Victoria and the Northern Territory, there was talk Kevin Rudd had the numbers and was about to challenge Julia Gillard for the ALP Leadership. Seriously, the news in Australia is never as interesting when I’m back home as when I’m overseas. The talk was short-lived and quickly denied. I dropped a “sorry” note to my colleague back home, apologising for going on leave and leaving her to deal with the breaking news associated with all of these political happenings, as well as the election of a new Pope.
After a morning coffee, I spent a bit time of time wandering around Gamla Stan, the Old Town in Stockholm which is absolutely stunning. Since Sweden remained neutral during the Second World War, Stockholm escaped the bombing which destroyed many of the Old Towns in Europe. Thus, Gamla Stan remains wonderfully intact. And unlike other Old Town areas, such as Sydney’s “The Rocks”, Gamla Stan is more than a museum, more than one big tourist shop. People live in Gamla Stan. They have jobs in Gamla Stan that aren’t necessarily tourism-related. It’s wonderful to see an Old Town that’s living and, seemingly, thriving.
As I wandered around, a poster caught my eye in the window of The Riksdag, the Swedish Parliament. It was a poster which declared the Swedish Parliament passed lots of legislation every day. At the very top of the poster was an image of two men kissing. (OK yeah, that’s what caught my eye). For just a moment I reflected on the significance of an “official poster” from the Swedish Parliament of two men kissing. And, in contrast to Australia, it wasn’t a safe sex poster or something like that hidden away in a public toilet or a gay bar. It was wonderfully re-assuring to see something like that all official-like.
There’s room for all sorts of families and relationships in Sweden. The Swedish parliament passes all types of legislation, according to this poster.
But Sweden’s like that, you know. It’s been fascinating to reflect on the much discussed, much publicised gender equality you see here. And you do see it, most commonly when you see men pushing prams and bottle feeding their children in coffee shops and restaurants. Sure, men in Australia and other parts of the world do this also, but it’s so common place here no one seems to blink, whereas I think back home people would look and stare.
I also reflected today that the last week or so has flown by very quickly. Tomorrow I need to do clothes some washing, ironing and packing ahead of my trip to Berlin on Saturday. I also need to wash the sheets and make the bed, and clean up a little bit in the apartment I’ve been staying. In stark contrast to staying in a hotel or a hostel, it’s been so wonderful to have a place to call my own for the last week or so.
My friend Sue meets me in Berlin on Sunday, and we’ll be spending a few days there, followed by a few days in Copenhagen, and then back to Stockholm. We’ll be here for Easter which, apparently, is a pretty terrific time to be in Stockholm. Already the countdown is on with the feathers on sticks (a Swedish Easter tradition) all over the city at flower shops and stalls at the moment.
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6 Comments
Sounds like it’s what the Scots might refer to as a Wee Street. :)
James, next time you’re on one of your Surry Hills photo-taking jaunts, could you please have a look at what is at 15 Ridge St, Surry Hills? My great Aunt and her children lived there in 1936. I would really appreciate it if you have a chance! Thanks!
Sounds like it’s what the Scots might refer to as a Wee Street. :)
James, next time you’re on one of your Surry Hills photo-taking jaunts, could you please have a look at what is at 15 Ridge St, Surry Hills? My great Aunt and her children lived there in 1936. I would really appreciate it if you have a chance! Thanks!
That French patisserie doesn’t happen to be on a corner about a block away from the Green Park pub does it? Possibly opposite a church of some sort?
We stopped off and got something to drink there our last day in Sydney… ;)
Tom – very funny!!
Cathy – sure will. It’s just around the corner from where I live.
Yani – yes, that’s the one. Nice coffee, and I ate a yummy cherry strudel.
I now live in this street above the warehouse you photographed. It now has a white space shop on top, which lovingly call home
Great to hear from you Phil. I hope this little bit of “history” adds to your enjoyment of the space. Welcome to the neighbourhood.